ANNA
13 rue du Vertbois, 3rd.
Tel. 0973889606.
• 6pm to 11pm
• Closed Sunday
• Average price: €50.
Praise for the deliberate modesty of this new location in the “Quartier Libre Vertbois”, which calls itself a simple wine bar, but is also (and especially!) an excellent trattoria. Its facade and walls of asymmetrical white tile fragments have been updated and the small dining room fitted with black solid wood furniture is bathed in warm and cozy light. In command of the kitchen are chef Giuseppe Craparotta, who has worked his magic in establishments such as Armani Caffè, and Alessandro Allegri, a self-trained chef from Italy whose love of food and wine brought him to Paris. The menu starts with excellent carciofi a la giudia (€13) – an age-old recipe from the Jewish ghetto of Rome – consisting of little fried artichokes that are eaten whole, leaves included, followed